Professor Bernal and the Deficit in Santo Domingo

My last days in Panama were spent with friends. Losing my opportunity to visit Colon, the country's second largest city with the highest percentage of black Panamanians, I felt a little discouraged. As had happened in Esmeraldas, Ecuador and Buenaventura, Colombia, I couldn't find the time or the way to make it to parts of the Afro-Latin world undoubtedly rich with cultural expression, but rife with poverty and violence. People warned me about each place, about how dangerous it was and how it wasn't worth it to go. While I wanted to go regardless, I did want to have an objective or a contact, rather than just dropping myself there with no plans. Unfortunately this always took a longer time than I had in country - to establish the contacts to plan a productive trip to some pretty rough cities. Anyway, I had a good time hanging with some new friends, which involved a bizarre late night trip to the casino until 6am. The casinos are open 24 hours and they don't draw the cream of the crop at 4am. Apparently, there were plenty of Colombian hookers looking for clients. And there were plenty of people running around with no teeth making some ridiculous statements. As we got our late-night pleasure food, it was quite a show.

Two days before I left for Dominican Republic though, I had a great dinner conversation with Professor Miguel Bernal. The law professor was a good man, devoted to human rights and development in Panama. His history spoke for itself. I found him after a quick Google search, and read about his continued periods being thrown in jail by the repressive military government, the many attempts made on his life and his eventual exile. A former mayoral candidate of Panama City, he still teaches today and has a daily radio show where he talks about contemporary politics. Many people acknowledged him as they passed our table, and a few came to chat. Within a short 45 minute conversation, he had given me many leads for my questions regarding Afro-Latin culture. Our conversation was interesting though. He spoke about how the basic rights of people are being compromised in various sectors, especially education. He rightfully connected education with freedom and opportunity and employment, both nationally and internationally. He thought that was the major front to fight on. But he spoke about the political legacy of the military regime in Panama, and while he believed things were better, he still believed people weren't as involved as they should be in the political process. He lamented the lack of private ingenuity (not one Panama-owned magazine being produced) and collective mobilization (with only 9 million people in the country, why is it so difficult to find common ground). One thing he drove home for me though as I pressed him on culture and politics, is how diffuse and diverse Panama's cultural history has been. They've seen the arrival of African slaves and the influence of Amerindian groups, and the immigration of Europeans, Asians, West Indians, Americans, and South Americans, creating an identity that is as worldly as any you can find. While that has created a sense of equanimity among Panamanian people (outside of the judicial system and police brutality among people who are darker-skinned), it has perhaps also engendered some complacency.

Professor Bernal gave me tons to think about, as I compared Panama with the other countries I have visited to this point. I arrived in Santo Domingo to a very different vibe, distinctly Caribbean and overly touristy - to be expected. While Santo Domingo has been fine, it's felt a bit congested at times (the streets are generally smaller) and there's an annoying obsession with Christopher Columbus. Since I was little I have questioned why this man is so celebrated, why the pope would visit his tomb here in DR. I wonder if we need an actual number of the Native Americans he slaughtered. Oh well, it didn't make sense in 2nd grade and it doesn't make sense now. But I have tried to come to terms with Dominican history, especially the racism that came with the brutal regime of Trujillo, and its impact on current prospects for exploring Afro-Dominican culture (rather than going to ANOTHER Columbus landmark, museum or statue). I'm still probing here, asking cab drivers and new friends, but noone seems to really know or be interested in Afro-Dominican history. This is fascinating because the nearby countries of Cuba and Puerto Rico have more openly documented and celebrated African cultural influences.

Other than a merengue/bachata show in the Plaza de Espana and museum trips, I've used my week in DR so far to recharge. The nightly, drunken party outside the grocery store outside my hotel was entertaining as well though. I only watched, didn't participate. It was tempting...I am excited about seeing the Garifuna in Belize in a few days, and even more excited to head home in a little over one week (especially since the NBA season started yesterday, but mostly to reacquaint with friends and wear DIFFERENT CLOTHING). Until then, I'll enjoy other parts of the DR with old college friends and hope to stumble upon something interesting in the days ahead...