Black Santa Claus, Jau Peri, and the Band I Didn't See...

I spent all of today resting and listening to Miles Davis. After a crazy past few days, I need time to recuperate. I've realized that my desire to go to as many concerts, shows, and musical events means that I will be dancing a whole lot. For some reason I pictured myself sitting comfortably and enjoying music at different venues, taking time to dissect lyrics and the performance. Nope, not it at all! And I like it better this way. Music should always be about participation and community.

My weekend basically started on Wednesday. I woke up feeling great, finally making good progress with my Portuguese and learning a lot of new things. I decided to spend the day at the beach. You know how in a new place there's a barrier you cross where you feel as if everyone doesn't notice you anymore, that you no longer look like the clueless roaming tourist. Well I felt like I crossed that barrier until a funny little moment. I walked to the beach feeling very Brazilian (not sure how to explain this feeling). I posted up with my umbrella and a cool drink, and just read for a bit, forgetting that I was in a completely new place and that I still don't know what's going on most of the time. Then this old man with about 5 hairs on his head and women's sunglasses (the big ones that cover a lot of one's face) walked by me and, as loud as could be, said "OOOOOOH ESTADOS UNIDOS!!!!!!!!!" I guess something about me screamed USA. Then about 20 people turned their heads and looked at me. I just started laughing; my cover was blown. For the time being, I went back to feeling like a clueless tourist, maybe it'll take a bit longer to feel like a local. That night I took another visit to Pelourinho and watched some great Capoeira and some awesome bands perform. There was this great Afro-Brazilian group, led by this guy who looked like a black Santa Claus. They had this amazing guitar player who walked around the venue doing crazy solos for everyone. They also had about 10 different vocalists take the stage. I was amazed at how organic it felt. Someone would just get up and take the mic and start singing a song, perfect pitch, and everyone knew all the words. It made me eager to get to the point where I understand everything the songs are saying and not just pieces. Of course there was a funny part to this night as well - humor always seems to find me. This very very small woman, probably around 60 years old, wearing a head wrap and a colorful outfit, danced by herself in the middle of the dance floor, just as drunk as can be, stumbling all over and slurring her words. It was funny for a second, but then she started to annoy people. She kept asking for the mic, going up to the singers and hugging them and refusing to let go. After awhile, during a swinging samba number, she made her way around the room shaking people's hands and asking them to dance. As she approached our table, my friends were laughing and telling me to accept when she asked. She arrived at our table, and I avoided eye contact. After about 15 seconds of drunken staring, she moved on to the next table and I breathed a sigh of relief.

After another day of sightseeing, and buying some local music and DVDs (I really like this band Grupo Revelação, great samba music!), I got word that Ile Aiye was going to be performing Saturday night. I was so excited. Ile Aiye is the first "bloco afro" in Bahia, celebrating its 35th anniversary. They're all about black empowerment and black music, stressing first and foremost their connection to Africa. They're really the model for my interest in how music affects communities for the better in this region of the world. Anyway, I went with some good people I just met, one of whom was the first person I've met here who speaks English! (I managed to go awhile and not meet one person who spoke my language - my only exposure was my conversations with my Mom and my Fresh Prince DVDs). We went to Curuzu, pretty far from where I live. It's a cool town - really small houses and shops, economically depresed though. People were everywhere and it was a predominantly black neighborhood it seemed. I was surprised when we went inside and there were tourists everywhere. One of the kids I went with said "muitos brancos, tudo brancos!" which means "so many white people!" It was interesting to see the reach of Ile and their popularity manifested in people from all over coming to hear their music in this little town. About 9 or 10 different singers came out and performed, flanked by 8 Ile drummers with bright yellow shirts. Most of the songs were about "Esmeralda" - apparently a theme for Carnaval this year, still looking into the meaning of this - and black history. It was definitely a great experience. The best part though was the band that followed - Jau Peri. This was some of the best music I've heard in awhile. They had me dancing all over the place, I was acting like I was on Soul Train! When they did a cover of "Turn Your Lights Down Low" by Bob Marley, I sang my heart out. I need to pick up some of their music because I enjoyed their set thoroughly. By the time I got home, I saw it was 4:30am and I realized I already bought a ticket for another concert the following day.

We got to the venue around 2pm and there was already a band playing. About 5 different bands played leading up to the main act. People were just hanging out, talking and drinking (early!...). Sunday is a party day here as much as Friday and Saturday it seems. I met some more cool people my age - everyone is real nice here and it's real easy to make friends. People are real patient even though someone doesn't speak perfect Portuguese and the fact that you're trying and going back and forth means a lot. It started raining after a while and the event was outside. The band and parts of the crowd area had covering, but most of the dance floor was uncovered. I watched people dance happily and carefree in the rain for awhile. Before I knew it it was 6pm and this one band came out and everyone got so excited. I figured they were the main event. It was still raining slightly but my friends and I went to the dance floor anyway and enjoyed the music. I tried to pick up as many dances as I could. After about an hour, they were done and I thought the event was finished. Nope! They were just another band...The main event was probably in another three hours. I saw it was about 7:45 and I just felt exhausted. On the cab ride home, I wondered if I should have stayed - I can't even remember the name of the band everyone actually went to see. When I was knocked out in bed at 9pm, I had my answer...